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28. 10 Things I Love About Living in Panama (and 10 Things I Don’t)

When people think of moving to Panama, they often picture the idyllic beaches, lush landscapes, and a slower pace of life. And, while all of that is very true, there’s (always!) more to the story. 

If you're considering moving here, the best thing you can do for yourself is talk to someone who is not in the honeymoon period and is willing to share their whole story.

I came to Panama's Azuero Peninsula three years ago with my partner, Ken (and a whole lot of naiveté 😆). My goal with this post is to be fully transparent and share my honest take on the highs and lows of living in this beautiful country. 

Of course, these things are specific to me and the area I live. And, I titled this post very intentionally—“10 Things I Like About LIVING in Panamá (and 10 Things I Don’t)” is very different from “10 Things I Like About Panamá (and 10 Things I Don’t).” Several of the things I mention on my lists are not specific to Panamá, just expat life in general, so this is just one side of a very long story!

So, let's get started, shall we?

10 Things I Love About Living in Panama

1️⃣ The lush green landscape

Coming from the desert known as San Diego, I deeply appreciate greenery. During the rainy season, which lasts about eight months (from approximately mid-April to mid-December, give or take a few weeks), Panama is a lush paradise. The trees are so vibrant and alive, it’s like living in a never-ending botanical garden.

2️⃣ Taking walks on a stunning secluded beach

Walking on the beach here feels like stepping into a scene from National Geographic. The sand is never-ending sand, the waves gentle, the people almost non-existent, and the backdrop is the jungle. It never gets old.

3️⃣ Living with monkeys & toucans

There’s something magical about sharing your environment with exotic wildlife. Seeing howler, white-faced capuchin, and sometimes spider monkeys swinging through the trees and toucans flying overhead is a daily gift.

4️⃣ Watching sunsets from our house

The sunsets where we live are nothing short of spectacular. Watching the sky turn shades of pink, orange, and purple from the comfort of my home is one of the most precious aspects of my life here. 

5️⃣ Leaving my door unlocked

I can count the number of times I’ve used a house key since I moved into the house I built, something I could never do back in San Diego. There’s no need for “street smarts” where we live either. Our community is at safe as it gets! 

6️⃣ Warm temps

The temperature where we live in Panamá is always warm...even when it rains. It's absolutely lovely never having to worry about bundling up or dealing with freezing temperatures.

The ocean is the same! I don't go in the water too often, but when I want to the temperature doesn't stop me. Stepping into the ocean here is like stepping into a bathtub—the water is totally warm and inviting. 

7️⃣ Not paying high property taxes

One of the financial perks of living in Panama is the escape from the ridiculous property taxes I pay in California. It definitely adds up and makes a difference!

8️⃣ A totally leash-free life for our dog

Our dog is seriously living a canine's best life here. No leashes and almost-daily fishing trips in the estuary and ocean. It’s awesome to see him so happy!

9️⃣ Providing our own fresh food

The soil and climate here are perfect for growing papayas and bananas, and I’ve never tasted anything quite like the ones we grow in our yard. The papayas are SO sweet and flavorful and the apple bananas are tart and firm. And, nothing beats enjoying a meal of the fresh fish Ken caught that same day!

🔟 Having a green thumb

In San Diego, I was a plant killer. Not only do my houseplants live here, they thrive. The conditions are just right, and it’s very satisfying to be surrounded by green throughout my house.

10 Things I Don’t Love About Living in Panama

1️⃣ The language barrier

Not being fluent in Spanish stops me from feeling like I fully belong here. This is 100% my fault, but because I am not retired, self-care is no longer optional, and there are only 24 hours in a day, I simply don’t have the time to make it to full fluency. It's isolating and inconvenient to have to rely on paid help to do simple things (like resolve issues at my bank, go to a doctor appointment, etc.).

2️⃣ Not knowing where to find things or help

In the U.S., I always knew exactly which store to visit for whatever I needed, and there was an abundance of contractors available to help fix any issue. In Panama, it’s a different story. The stores here are completely different, and my limited Spanish doesn’t help. Living in the countryside means there are very few stores and contractors available, making it a real challenge to find what we need. Very often, things just flat out aren't available. It often feels like I’m on a never-ending scavenger hunt, struggling to track down even the simplest of items. As a result, I have to order many things from Amazon and pay $2.75/lb to have them shipped to me. 

3️⃣ Higher prices & lower quality of products

In the U.S., I paid $800 for my couch and, other than a bit of fading, it was still comfy and attractive after almost a decade of daily use. Here, I paid $2,400 for my couch and after less than two years of limited use it has big indents where people sit and animals sleep. Even products with the same brand names I’m used to in the U.S. are not the same...the Stanley tape measure I bought worked twice before breaking. So, I'm constantly replacing things, which is frustrating when you're frugal!

4️⃣ The harshness of the elements

The tropical climate here can be tough on even the best quality possessions. My costume jewelry, which lasted for years in the U.S., has tarnished so badly here that I've had to throw most of it away. Mold has ruined some of my favorite clothes, and the hard water and salty air shorten the life of plumbing fixtures. Also, the constant power surges and drops kill appliances (my Whirlpool washer/dryer combo is almost dead after three years, a name brand toaster oven lasted only two, and my electric water heater is starting its death throes). 

5️⃣ The bureaucracy

The residency process is just the beginning. Here, any evenly slightly official document needs to be stamped by a notary and the closest notary is almost 1-1/2 hours away. I have needed attorneys more than I ever did back in the U.S., which is an added expense. What makes it even more challenging is that there are only a few local English-speaking attorneys available, and if they decide they don't want to help you, you're in a pickle. It’s not uncommon for them to simply not respond, leaving you in a difficult position with few alternatives. And, there’s no Yelp-equivalent here, so it’s equally tough knowing if the ones you do find are competent and/or honest.

6️⃣ More opportunists & scammers

Unfortunately, Ken and I have lost THOUSANDS of dollars to opportunists and scammers (both directly to them and to attorneys to fight them), most of whom are other expats. It's not easy to thrive financially in Panama; add that to an unreliable legal system (see #7) and you have a recipe for crime. It’s disheartening and makes it difficult to trust people, adding another layer of challenge to living here. Even if you manage to avoid being scammed, you’re going to get “gringoed” on a fairly regular basis.

7️⃣ A questionable level of physical and legal protection

Thankfully, we do live in a safe area, because the nearest police department is 30+ minutes away and there’s not a whole lot of investigating going on here. We only recently got one ambulance and that's located near the police station. If someone decides to throw a party that impacts people for miles around (see my post on searching for peace and tranquility in Panama 😆), if you are a victim of petty crime, or if you get scammed, there's not a whole lot you can do (Unfortunately , I will be getting some firsthand experience filing a criminal complaint soon…more on that in a future blog.). The legal system here is costly, often illogical, and takes YEARS to settle even the simplest of cases. This has left me feeling unprotected, frustrated, and often stressed.

8️⃣ The disregard for the environment

You'd think that having such a stunningly beautiful country would create a fierce desire to protect it. Nope. In fact, there’s a noticeable lack of protection of the environment here. People throwing trash out of their car windows without consequence, improper handling of trash, minimal recycling efforts, sewage issues, and unchecked construction are the norm. 

Where we live, there is a lot of new construction with little or no environmental oversight…and it’s showing. 

9️⃣ A very limited social pool

Living in the countryside, our social pool is very small and, unfortunately, I've encountered more than my fair share of cliques, gossip, excessive alcohol (and drugs), and just overall dysfunction. Honestly, it feels an awful lot like high school. At this point in my life,

When I came here to close escrow on my property, I went to the local expat bar and the Universe tried to warn me..."You know in the movie Toy Story there was the closet of broken toys? Well, that's who we all are...the broken toys." 😆

I've come too far to compromise on who I hang out with, even casually. Hence, I'm alone a lot here by choice. I miss Meetup!!! Back in the U.S., I was in hiking, reading, and foodie groups and there was always something enriching going on and the friend pool was Olympic-sized.

🔟 There is no Trader Joe's 

As a cook and “foodie” (AKA food snob), I miss the incredible variety of interesting and seasonal foods offered by the best grocery store on the planet ~ Trader Joe's. "Gourmet" items here are limited and super pricey. I miss the days when I could grab an exotic cheese, a loaf of sourdough, a pre-made salad, and a pumpkin spice dessert in one stimulating and affordable shopping trip. I also miss easy access to all the items I need for a mini-cleanse or detox. 

Life here is a mix of highs & lows

Just like it would be everywhere in the world, my life in Panama is a mix of incredible highs and frustrating lows. The last three years have been one of the most amazing, educating and enlightening experiences of my life that has helped me become WAY more conscious of what really matters to me.

Are you a seasoned Panamá expat? If so, do tell us some of the things you love (and don't love) about living in Panamá in a comment below!

 

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Comments
Hi Janet, I loved this post. I’m not moving there, but I’m very impressed by you and your moxie. I like your honesty and openness…and your smile. My only question is whether or not there is food (chicken, pork, beef) available that isn’t seafood. I’m sure there is, but how available is it? Introverts unite!
Hi Bart! Thanks so much for your kind words. Fortunately, there is a really good butcher that delivers to our area...they have excellent chicken and pork (better than the U.S.). Other than ground beef, the beef in Panama leaves a lot to be desired.
Helen B. "I completely agree with your assessment. It is an accurate reflection of my experience too. For me, it was too hot. The hardest thing for me was inconsistent electricity, which meant long stretches with no air or fans in intense heat. And, of course, most likely having lost a third of my retirement savings in a real estate venture."
When we were living without power, it was WAY too hot…so I hear ya there! We don’t lose it too much now so it’s bearable. The whole legal/scammer thing is soul crushing.
Kathia F. "I agree with you 💯. As a Panamanian who came back after 30 years it hasn't been easy. The lack of respect for the environment, being scammed by a landlord, horrible legal system are some of the things we have experienced. People making money hurting other people."
Richard F. "Hi Janet, I gave it a read and I agree with many things you have said, especially the positives. Our negatives have some similarities to yours, the large exception being #9, which we feel the exact opposite about. We have a large genuine group of friends here, more so than we had back home, likely in part due to the number of times we see and interact with them here. We think it is one of the big pluses of living in this area of the Azuero. I have never been hugged so much in my life and I kinda like it. 😁"
We’ve been enjoying hanging out with our new neighbors (who weren’t here for our first two years)! Had they been here sooner, I think my #9 may have been different.
Tim T. "Good stuff Janet, thanks for doing this. More of an observation then a comment- I’ve always been disappointed with the beaches, at least on the Pacific side. I’ve been to beaches from southern Azuero to Playa Blanca and to me, there’s a lot of rocks, trash and debris. I’ve learned to carry shoes with me when I walk the beach. And on many of the beaches the sand is dark brown and very muddy. The tides are significant so there’s often mud flats. So I’m curious where you find beaches where “The sand is never-ending.” Thanks."
One of the bummers about Venao is the limited beaches. We are VERY fortunate to have a semi-secret one below our house…if you go to my Vista Cañas Nature & Book Retreat Facebook page or Instagram profile, you can see the mind blowing pics. Truly spectacular…but, definitely not a typical beach.
Dave D. "This is, by far, the best assesment of expat life in Panama. It should be required reading for anyone moving here! My wife and I just got back from a week in the US and we both remarked about how unsafe we felt with large crowds. Panama may have its quirks but at least we are confident that some crazy wont start shooting up the place."
Thank you so much! I definitely have appreciated the safety factor here…I might revise my post and add that as one of the things I love!
Dana V. "Being too far from specialized health care for Noel and I was the deal breaker. Panama City has great private health car e but it gets expensive staying in hotels for extended stays, paying cash for procedures, and the language barrier when you have big health care issues is difficult as well. Pedasi health care isn't good for heart and multiple detached retinas😕, so we had to give up our Panama dream and move back to US"
Yes, only health insurance (which is not super easy to get) and very basic healthcare is affordable here. Actually, another issue for me is that my compounded thyroid meds, which I have to get from the states, loses strength here because of the humidity...makes it VERY hard to keep my thyroid stable (a big deal!).

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